Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Three Kings (Los Reyes)

Danelle sent this in last year for the Cronica so I thought I would put it in again this year as it sums up what happens here for Christmas...

Three Kings (Los Reyes):

I have been in Valencia twice now to experience the special time and customs of the “Three Kings”. It is so wonderful and particularly unique to Spain that I thought I’d write about it so those of you that weren’t here could experience it. On the evening of January 5, children put their shoes on a balcony or near a window. The next day is Epiphany, the last day of the Christmas season. It celebrates the visit of the Magi to the infant Jesus. According to legend, the Wise Men (Magi) arrive during the night before Epiphany and fill the children's shoes with small gifts. Children also leave out straw and barley for the Wise Men/3 Kings’ camels and a letter for them. If you were bad you only get carbon/coal in your shoes.

Traditionally, children don’t receive gifts until January 5, the eve of Epiphany. The major city festivals celebrate saints' days. Twelve days after Christmas, on the feast of the Epiphany (the day the three wise men are said to have reached Bethlehem), a boat comes into the harbour bearing "three kings" who then parade through the streets throwing lollies/candy to all the children. The children all shout out the names of the three kings, Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar as they pass.

There were two Three Kings Parades in Valencia. The Barrio of Nazaret, near the Port, has a Parade that starts at the port and goes through the streets of Nazaret. The Maritimos,,maritime workers, seamen etc put on this festival in their neighbourhood every year. We watched the Three Kings arrive at the port near the Pier for the Super Yachts near the AC Bases this year and parade around Nazaret. There were so many children lined up waiting for them, when they came they all put there hands up in the air to catch the lollies/candy. The plumes and colourful costumes of the Three Kings could be seen through their outreached hands. Last year we went to City Hall (Ayuntamiento), despite the crowds we actually saw more. We were right near the nativity scene and the children were all screaming out the names of each of the Kings as they arrived. They had to shout out their names again loudly or each one wouldn’t rise on the magic carpet (crane) to the balcony.

One of the members of our team is from Alcoy, a town about 50km south of Xativa. He had told me that they have a very special Three Kings celebration, and it was judging from what I saw on Canal 9. The town has a cobbled street leading to the plaza and the Three Kings were heralded as they came out by a town crier and they came on real camels. Then their assistants, black mistrels, climbed up little red ladders to the balconies of the houses around the plaza and delivered presents to the children from the Three Kings. There was music and bands and incredible elaborate costumes. Fantastic to watch. They then proceeded to visit Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus.

On January 6, a special bread called “Roscon de Reyes” is eaten. The person who finds the toy or figurine of one of the Kings is given the gold paper crown that comes with the bread and is King for the day. The person who finds the bean has to pay for the bread the next year. The bakeries had people lining up to pick up there Roscon they had ordered. Each Bakery had very different Roscon was fun to see what was available and try them of course.

If you haven’t been to Alcoy it’s also famous for its Moros y Cristianos Festival between April 22 and April 24. The parade and the costumes are amazing. The recreation of the battle on the last couple of days is quite loud, you may need ear plugs if you don’t like noise. The locals are very friendly and you can see many drinking in the bars behind the main Plaza de Espana, where the parade and battles mostly take place, in costume happy to chat and be photographed. For more information contact Alcoy Tourist Office Calle San Lorenzo 2, open 9.30-1.30pm and 5pm –7pm Mon to Friday and 9.30-1.30 Sat Tel:965-537-155

I brought a very cute children’s book about the Three Kings called Pajes Reales (curso para Jovenes) by Nuria Pradas. Published by La Galera in Barcelona. ISBN 10. 84-246-2157-3
www.editorial-lagalera.com it’s very imaginative and lots of fun to translate. Probably for children aged 7 but parents could read to younger children. I also sent a fantastic book to my Mum, who is a kindergarten teacher. It was more about the nativity (belen) and had jigsaw puzzles in it. Was probably a little more about the biblical meaning of the Three Kings. Both books were in Spanish.

Happy New Year everyone! Hope you got to eat the 12 grapes on New Years Eve too as is the custom. Both years I still haven’t been able to finish all the grapes in time with the bell chimes…oh well I’ll keep practicing.

Danelle Sofuku